(727) 834-0438
2803 Troy Road
Springfield Ohio 45504
In Ohio, the winters can hold a few bone-chilling days and nights outside.
Thanks to an ample amount of capitalist junk mail, which arrives to us unsolicited, kindling a fire to warm the inside is not a problem.
The thermal mass of the concrete floor, integrated fans, damper, and draft control allow for the fireplace insert to easily heat the 3 car garage throughout the winter.
1). By distilling water now eliminates a need to transport myself to the distant store. 
I don't drive and the bike would not carry enough of the yearly supply of water that the battery banks infrequently will consume.
2.) The cost for distilled water is not so significant if it were needed to be obtained from the monopoly-protected stores, however the inconvenience of having to get my geriatric self on an electric-powered bike these days is petering-me out just thinking about it.
3.) With the savings in the cost of distilled water vs. the cost of the loss of my time (my life) to obtain said water, and the potential of accidents along the way, are completely eliminated by making my own distilled water anyway.
4.) And furthermore, since I've completely dropped away from the path of normal capitalistic ventures ( a job, wife, picket fence and a dog named Waldo ), I haven't any real source of income. One might say I've pushed this thing about faith a bit too far, but honestly....who needs to work when you're increasingly becoming self-sufficient? By not being forced to follow the "normal" route of obtaining outside employment I can avoid financing what may be our Nation's own demise (i.e. https://usdebtclock.org/ ).
5.) And finally there's the religious reasons, tenets such as, "be ye separate" and "let thine OWN cisterns water thee" and "my people, when ye see these signs, depart from her".
The distillery was worth the moments to construct, it sucked so I bought one to replace it.
The water that fuels the distillery is actually the washer and dryer's refuse water. The refuse washer / dryer water is actually the refuse water from the Reverse Osmosis unit! In fact, the water that comes into my lab is completely raw from deep in the ground. The raw water is not what I drink, there are a half-dozen filters for the drinking water. One need only bother to stare at the wet concrete floor as the water pools down the drain to see the nematode creatures (use a magnifying glass). When the concrete is almost completely drained off, that's the best time to see what's really happening in your water. It appears they are squirming around trying to find a pool to dip into. Also, if you've ever killed a cricket or other similar bug and noticed a white thing coming out of it's buttocks, that squirming thing is another form of nematode. But enough of the worms already.
So, when the raw water comes in to the lab it goes to a splitter that allows for an avenue of becoming filter and then the other avenue is set to a hose for spraying down the washout area, another to the shower, and finally yet another to the washer. However the washer's use of the raw water is further utilized in that the runoff it receives directly from the R.O.'s refused water is then drained into a catch of jugs. As the jugs become full, it's then that the rounds to the various end-points are made. For instance, on the wood burner is a larger-than-life roasting pan that boils water pretty much perpectually, it also acts as the humidifier (I don't like dry air), if it is full then I top off the distillery. If the distillery is full then I water the over-30 seedlings that have soil that tends to dry out daily. There's also other plants that need constant tending to (which hopefully there will be implented to automate that process using a simple drip-waterer).
Let's say you need more heat out of your fire but it appears to be burning lazily.
What do you do?
Some of you might say open the damper to get the suction effect going (but then you are simply releasing the heat up the chimney), others will say open the draft control (but let's assume it's wide open already), and still others will say pour some gasoline in there (LOL...no, nobody is actually saying that, right?).
You could pull the ash pan out a bit, by doing so would permit more air to enter up under the fire-box. This works, but let's say you have burning embers in the ash pan and you don't want the gasses to enter your living space.
And for argument's sake, let's say that pulling the pan out a tad hasn't made the fire burn hotter, now what?
Answer: Poke the grate.
This is the thing that blew me away.
Apparently, sometimes the grate becomes impassable even to air.
Whether by logs or un-burned kindling, or rocks (you never seen how I load my stove so don't laugh), you need only poke one or two holes in the grate to see the instant effects....suddenly your lazy fire will sound as though a turbo-engine were firing up.
Here's what burning rotten wood gets you:
Rotten wood does not create heat. In fact, it is exactly the antithesis of creating heat.
Rotten wood creates more problems with the chimney too. Expect to clean out the flue more often since the rotten wood holds moisture to attract more build-up of creosote.
Rotten wood has more living matter in it. Bugs burning do not create more heat either. As a matter of fact, as their little bodies are exploding in the fire, their inards are helping also to cool down the fire.
Rotten wood, especially when the wood is so soft that it is easily separated from the core attracts more pests, the bad kind (such as termites and other boring bugs). So if you are planning to store it, make real certain there's not a wooden structure nearby that you'd like to see remain structurally sound.
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